Updated July 2026 · Reviewed by RemodelyourHome.com editorial team
For most homes: vinyl windows deliver the best cost-to-performance ratio. For the best thermal performance and zero maintenance: Fibrex (Renewal by Andersen) or fiberglass. Wood looks best but demands the most upkeep.
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| Material | Cost/window (installed) | U-factor | Maintenance | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | $300–$700 | 0.20–0.32 | None | 20–40 yr |
| Fibrex® (RbA exclusive) | $800–$1,500 | 0.17–0.27 | None | 30–50 yr |
| Fiberglass | $600–$1,200 | 0.19–0.28 | Minimal | 30–50 yr |
| Wood | $800–$1,500 | 0.25–0.35 | High (paint every 5–10yr) | 30–50 yr (maintained) |
| Aluminum | $200–$500 | 0.40–0.80 | Low | 30–40 yr |
Frame material affects the visual weight, sightline thickness, and how much glass area you get per opening.
PVC frames in white or a limited color range. Cannot be painted after installation. Wider sightlines than fiberglass or Fibrex. The most common replacement window material — excellent value for most homes.
50% reclaimed wood fiber + 50% thermoplastic polymer. Thinner frames than vinyl (more glass per opening). Scratch-resistant, more color options. Exclusive to Renewal by Andersen. Best thermal performance available.
Glass fiber strands in a resin matrix. Dimensionally stable in extreme temperatures. Can be painted any color. Slim, strong profiles. Superior in cold climates; less widely available than vinyl but excellent long-term performance.
Fibrex is a composite material exclusive to Renewal by Andersen, made from 50% reclaimed wood fiber and 50% thermoplastic polymer, developed in 1992. It is twice as strong as vinyl (allowing thinner frames, more glass) and blocks thermal transfer 700 times better than aluminum. U-factor reaches 0.17 in triple-pane configurations.
U-factor measures heat transfer — lower is better. SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) measures solar energy entering through glass. In Texas, Florida, or Arizona: aim for SHGC below 0.25. In Minnesota or New England: a higher SHGC (0.40+) on south-facing windows captures free solar heat in winter.
Style is a separate decision from frame material — it’s about how the window operates and what shape opening it fits, not what it’s made of.
Double-hung: Two sashes that both slide vertically — the classic American window. Both panes tilt in for easy cleaning from inside. The most common and versatile style, and works with nearly any architectural style.
Single-hung: Looks similar to double-hung, but only the bottom sash moves while the top stays fixed. Slightly less expensive than double-hung.
Casement: Hinged on one side and cranks open outward like a door, sealing tightly against the frame when closed — one of the best air-leakage ratings of any operable style. Useful for hard-to-reach spots like over a kitchen sink since the crank does the work.
Awning: Hinged at the top and opens outward from the bottom, so it can stay open during light rain. Common above or below fixed windows, or in basements.
Bay / bow: Multiple windows joined at angles (bay is three panels; bow is four or more forming a gentle curve) that project outward from the wall, adding floor space and a wider view. A design statement window, usually in a living room or dining nook.
Sliding: Sashes slide horizontally instead of vertically. Fewer moving parts than double-hung, and works well for wide, low openings.
Picture / fixed: Doesn’t open at all — pure glass for maximum light and view, often paired with operable windows on either side for ventilation. The most energy-efficient style since there’s no seal to leak, but provides zero airflow on its own.
Specialty shapes: Custom arched, circular, trapezoidal, or angled units built to a specific non-rectangular opening — common over doors or in gable ends.
These are the questions homeowners ask most often before starting this project - what it costs, how long it takes, what a fair quote looks like and which details change the price. Each answer below is written to stand on its own, so you can read just the one you need.
